Shivapuri Village

(The 7000m mountain ranges in the background...the fog is still in the valley so we are presented with a clear view...of course, with coffee.)

I spent only an hour and a half in a jeep to get to Shivapuri; 45 minutes of that spent going 5km/hr maneuvering around the jagged rocks and 'potholes'. At one point, we might as well been climbing straight up a rock face...no dirt on this section. We arrived just before sunset at an altitude of 2000m, give or take 100m.

We (Rabindra, Aman and I) had a quick orientation to the 'village' which sits in the middle of 25 Acres of land then surrounded by jungle to the East and South, a cliff to the North and another village 2km West. In essence, the 'village' I'm referring to is an Eco Lodge. The buildings are a unique fusion of tradition construction and modern design...so beautiful. It was so nice to be surrounded by only the sounds of birds and the occasional human voice. The human voices are the village people who live among the guests in the village and work the day to keep it like home...their home.

Up before sunrise, at the sight of first light, we walked out to the natural terrace and had a lucky day with the sight of 4 mountain ranges, the famous '7000'ers. Like my flight into the Kathmandu valley, the mountains were floating above the clouds - a rich peace.

After breakfast over the valley, we went for a steep hike down to the local farming village then back up the steep hill. I was so taken by the beauty of this place that I had to take the afternoon to just write and read and think. This is the place Rabindra and I are wanting for a part of the school program. This is the place everyone should experience once before they move into the next life. Although, the two huge (by Canadian standard) spiders that accompanied me in my bathroom do not need to stay. The spider's have now been creeping into my dreams and I'm not too sure what that's all about...seriously.

After watching how a gourmet meal is made over open fire, dinner, and a peaceful sleep, I spent the next morning with the cook on a medicinal plant walk around the jungle. Odd enough, we found 12 plants just kicking on the side of the rugged road and that was enough for me. I am compiling a booklet for the owner as part of my proposal for him to keep this place the way it is.

Now, back in Kathmandu I am now staying with Rabindra's family, all 12 members - I've now been accepted as the 13th. They are taking such good care of me and I feel so at home - my room is big enough for a small seating area (on the floor), my bed, my table, and a place for me to stretch and 'meditate'. Our next adventure, is Chitewan Jungle, southern Nepal where I will be visiting on the school projects and trekking around.

Buddha to Business

I've spent the past week in Thamel and now we have a love/hate relationship. I have in Thamel Nepal friends that are kind and genuinely look out for me, scenic cafes where I sit and read, and amazing food - these things I love. The ugly sights that come with such a tourist trap include glue sniffing kids (although discrete), women who carry a baby in one arm and milk bottle in the other, and the loud rock and roll music that offers only sleepless nights..oh..and of course the 'business' that runs from 10pm to 4am outside my two-storey window - these things, I do not love.

The Daily Routine
Every morning I unplug myself from earplugs, get dressed and head to the street. I am greeted by amazing staff here at the Northfield Inn, including the security guard. For the first two days, every time I saw the security guard (Mr. Curious), he wanted to 'chat' about me and the day and yada yada. I noticed that a pattern was developing and so I taught Mr. Curious the peace pound (in Nepalese, the Shanti pound). Now, each time I see him (4 to 6 times a day), we share the peace pound and I'm free to go.



I have breakfast on a terrace with fresh squeezed OJ, milk coffee, and eggs on toast before heading to the Internet cafe where I work on the project proposals and business plans. Yes, plural. Each day, there is something new for the entrepreneur and since my mind is always rotating new ideas, it's hard not to speak up and offer some suggestions and create my own potentials of business. So, I do.



By mid afternoon, I'm done with work stuff, go for a hot shower because 4pm is the best time for hot water, and then head out for dinner - my new favorite restaurant is located in a huge book store. By the time the rock bands start playing, I head to my hotel room to catch a movie or read up on the Dalia Lama. Sometimes I'm lucky and get a phone call from Canada...sometimes.

New Perspectives
It should be to no ones surprise that since being submerged in such a rich Buddhist culture that I too am gaining a new perspective on humanity and the meaning of happiness - the peaceful principles thriving in this country is almost overwhelming. Sometimes difficult to see the peaceful practives among such honest people then to learn of private orphanages, unjust NGOs, and poor government initiatives.


I realize that placement organizations take the money they have collected and feed nothing to the orphanages or schools where they place volunteers. This is a thriving business in Nepal and unfortunately, if there were to be another political disturbance, those dependant on international aid and volunteer staff will crumble. Plus, because of how money talks in this country, a foreigner can open a private orphanage and do whatever he or she wants - sell for adoption, child pornography, or just live off foreign aid. This is not accepted by locals however, the government has no regulations to protect these children. Plus the parents who are misled to believe that their child is going to gain opportunity in the big city only too late find that their child has been shipped to Italy for adoption.


Not all stories are ugly...volunteers are the ones keeping things in check, ironically enough. For curiosity, I trade products such a can of milk powder, that I personally open, blankets or school books for information. For example, I ask a store staff to translate for me and what comes out is complete honesty in false need. Granted the ones on the street at 1am are in trouble. I also trade stories with volunteers, rather, I listen to the stories like the 22 year old man from Denmark, who cried in frustration and hopelessness that his volunteering is doing nothing. Hundreds of stories exist where young volunteers are faced with an overwhelming reality of unjustice to children - espeically the rural places.


I try to offer young volunteers, and myself, an understanding of difference between what is needed versus what they want to give. Only from within a country can the change in social programs, education, and justice truly come. Large organizations and international influence can be crucial to assist a country's development but for a single volunteer, the role is different. Through their time, compassion, and hope the role of the volunteer is to empower the children they meet to find happiness and to pursue Independence. Money and 'things' create dependencies that not only insult educated Nepalese but truly do not teach independence.


HFHI
Habitat for humanity has developed group saving programs and are now building a bamboo roofing factory that is affordable and sustainable for Nepalese living in the plains. This type of change takes years of planning, preparation, and implementation. The visa alone, for one staff doing this work is $5000USD...you can thank the Nepalese government for that.



Slowly, I'm finding my place in Nepal. That said, I certainly have not forgotten that my flight leaves for Canada on January 10th. xxx

The thing about Thamel is...

(Thamel is a district in Kathmandu. It is tourist central with bars, drugs, guides, music, and anything else you may be looking for. I am here until Sunday then move out to a home in the suburbs. Then to the mountains for two weeks.)

1. ANYTHING you want, you can have in Thamel.

2. As a lone, female traveler, you will be approached for "company" however, not from locals. The locals can't figure out if I am man or woman...hehe I love me.

3. Shower by candlelight is nice...maybe not every night. Dinner candlelight I can handle each night...and I do.

4. It is cold - a Halifax sort of zero degrees Celsius cold. Yes, I am staying warm.

5. Dance - nobody else does but that should not stop anyone because music, traditional and folk, is everywhere.

6. Some NGOs are good, some are just businesses with a fuzzy warm masks. It's the same in every country.

7. Beer is as much as your meal...usually more ;-(

8. I have a cappuccino everyday for $1.25 - my two pieces of toast and one hard boiled egg is the same price. Unlike home, I can get a hard boiled egg in any restaurant.

9. North Face is as often seen as the Buddha face.

10. The people genuinely want to help and do not expect anything else in return...except to give you their business card. This is the hardest adjustment of all.

The Thamel way.

(Journal entry, November 18'07: I watch from my seat window. The Nepal mountain range from the far West covers the horizon reaching the far East. The mountains are floating. I am at eye level with the peaks while the plane cruises at 30,000 ft. I am overwhelmed with a sense of place and to my surprse, my eyes water. I am finally here and I, more than ever, feel at peace.)
Arriving safe in Kathmandu, I was taken to my hotel then thrown into a taxi to go for dinner at Devendra's house. I had no idea where I was going, how far, or who I was meeting. I only knew names and the network in which we are connected (all through Camrose native Ruth Jensen). That was day one. I think most of my days will be like this...just go with it.

So far, the people I've met are no different here than in Bangalore, India - good english, respectful, and curious about my last name, occupation, and time of stay. The answers are all the same - Canadian, student, and 2 weeks maybe more maybe less. Unlike other places, Nepal Moaists treat Canadians and Americans very differently. So, I am super proud to be Canadian on this leg of my journey.

What am I doing?

Basically, I have four goals: 1) Establish the Outdoor Nepal School with Rabindra in three weeks; 2) Find a place to donate 5,000 pieces of clothing and supplies with ; 3) Visit habitat for humanity; 4) Volunteer with Hands for Help at the end of December.

On top of that, I'll be trekking around East Nepal, going paragliding for my birthday, and then volunteering for my Christmas gift. There is a great need in this country, like so many others, and the political situation is interesting and certainly not stable. I'm safe, but the locals are not.

You can give right to the people.

If you want to donate something (warm clothes, books, supplies), let me know and I'll make it happen. I'll even be taking photos of delivery and working with CWIN, so far, my favorite contact.

I'll write as best I can...I would love to hear any stories from back home...Mom, how's the house?

The thing about India is...

(While siting in the Bangalore airport,waiting for my delayed flight, I started to ramble things about India, some observations, if you will).

20) Ambulance service Advertisement reads, "24 hour service includes: Freezer service, Balming, Cremation, Coffin, Oxygen equipment." For fast service call....

19) The lines on the road are only there to remind you that you are, in fact, on a road. Eventually, the lines are replaced with cement blocks...that'll teach you.

18) There is no 'maybe' in India. It is Yes, No, or I understand.

17) Try not to make sense of 'it'. Just go with the flow. Except when claiming your baggage upon arrival in Bangalore. Look at the people on your flight, follow them and push your way to get to your bag.

16) Group think, in men, takes on a completely different meaning than Canada...actually, it's the same - men become childish in groups.

15) Tea and coffee does not come in Starbucks form...funny thing too since the riches group in Indian plantations are coffee growers.

14) Roadways are shared by buses, cars, SUVs, dump truck carriers, bicycles, motorcycles, cows, chariots, and random pedestrians. Any 20 of these can fill a space of two bus lanes back home.

13) When going to the toilet, take a napkin or tissue - you never know what lies behind those doors.

12) Washing your hands before you eat takes on a new level of sanitary concern...hand sani please.

11) Street horns are the primary sound in India...for me, "oh my Buddha" is the second.

10) Good people smile back.

9) 10 Rupees is about $.025 so remember that when bartering a child for trinkets on the street.

8) elders have means from the government - give them money. Children? give to a local charity. Women with babies? Tough one since most women rent babies for this purpose so I feel it hard to do anything. Whatever the case...there are never enough rupees.

7) For India, read A fine balance; Then read The way of the peaceful warrior to understand a piece of me.

6) For all that appears ugly, there is an equal in beauty.

5) Do not order draft beer in India (or places like it)...or tomato based Italian dishes, for that matter...you may experience some bad stomach pains...and more.

4) It always matters. Speak-up, stand-up, and create waves. No means No. India is civilized for the most...well...some.

3) each state has it's special food - find it!

2) Namaste will respectively replace any handshake...and really, it is better for your health.

1) Go to India. Stay long, leave and come back. You will then love it the way I do.

Streets turn to Rubber

A few errands in Bangalore can take up one or two days and the crowds can eventually get to one's personal space. Just before Sahana, her 4 friends (Gopal, Kranthik, Yadev, and Hinglas) and I took off to the peaceful Christian belt of Kerala state, I experienced effects from the Diwali festival. Throughout India, three of the five days are spent lighting firecrackers, fireworks, and candles in celebration of Lakshmi and is considered the New Year (even countries like Gkyena, Thailand, Trinidad, Siam and Malaya celebrate this welcoming). What it means to me is no sleep. As often as the car horn, so is the firecracker...every 2 seconds until three or four or five in the morning. The scene from on top of the house, however, proves to be magical. Here we are, in the middle of this big city watch fireworks in distances ranging from 15 feet away to a kilometre. Kids playing with flares and rockets going off in any direction...yeah, I did not stay on the roof for long.

So after the loud experience, we traveled by rented car (and driver, Prem) to a rubber tree plantation in Kerala. For the next four days, there was no phone, Internet, or tv - just the way I like it. Our group had only surreal experiences after another in just getting there, let alone the magic of Kerala hospitality, waterfalls, true jeep rides to mountain villages, wild honey, coconut liquor, the local kids, and of course Paul - the Evangelist extremist giving hosting us with food and a hidden agenda. Basically our meals turned into fundraisers or preachy talk about all his good and he would follow us everywhere and keep telling me that he like Mel Gibson.

In one rubber tree plantation block there are about 300 trees. Every two days, 30-40 sheets of rubber is produced offering an income of ~3,000Rs per day. In one year, the one block can bring in
I had such an amazing and relaxing time in Kerala. This is the state that I could revisit over and over again - this is my Mexico, papa. I met a young man who really moved me - his values, his beliefs, his intelligence and his passion for his village and eco-tourism. This was also the state that moved me away from Ministry back in 2003. Not from a negative push, but I learned here and my visit this time reaffirms, the magic in living harmoniously with Hindu, Muslim, and Christian. All are human to one another and live in a community that supports one another. This is a spirituality that I can relate to - that it's not about the structure of worship, the book that says all, or the symbol of religion. Happiness and community striving for peace. Kerala is said to have 100% literacy and some of the most hard working rich people. I simply love it.

So now I prepare for New Delhi and start by looking for a Chiropractor (some morning stretches took my neck muscles by surprise)! As it goes. Life here is just like home - except everything is an extreme of back home...traffic, sounds, people, problems, landscape, and of course, food. I will save my food stories for when I come; I don't feel like drawing any scares...hehe.

Thank you for your warm thoughts - I can feel it in the St.Christopher that guards my heart.

Hampi and the Boys

So his name is Raghu and he a wonderful local from Hospet showing himself as one of the greatest hosts I have ever met (Can you tell?). Somewhere in here explains why.

I am traveling with Sahana from Bangalore to Hospet, a town just outside the Indian ancient ruins of Hampi. We arrive early in the morning and met by Raghu who escorts us to our hotel, takes us to a restaurant, then joins us on the bus to Hampi. He is polite and genuine, a little unusual to the normal stranger I meet in India. We had a guide take us through history lessons, a stage show with traditional Hindi music, and an awesome outdoor play that sort of resembles a Shakespeare.

Bus to Hampi...kinda full.

The next day, however, the fact that men in India can be sometimes too much, proves right. But it's a balance, I suppose. From Sahana loosing her wallet (visa, cash, bank card, bus ticket to Bangalore), climbing the 60 foot boulders for a panoramic view of the hills, searching for the teenage boy who man-handled my boobie, AND the best of the night, dancing in the streets to village drummers...whew, busy day. Oh, and I was blessed by the sacred elephant...hehe - his trunk blessed my head (for one Rupee). It was a roller coaster of a ride being stared at by hundreds, asked for my name by the dozens, and asked for me to be in a photo by the few - all in the days work of a foreigner. Seriously though, if I was here back in 2003, I would have left this place out of fear, but with my sense of security and Sahana as a guide of sorts, I really enjoyed the day. As for men, I still feel the same...they annoy me as often as the car, bus, or rickshaws horns go off in the streets (every 2 seconds...yup, I counted an average).

At the top of our climb...notice the village of Hampi in behind me and some temple structures.

After the day's events, Raghu saves us again first from the creepy police officer giving us a ride to Hospet (Raghu saw us at the intersection we were to meet but to our lack of knowing, the cop kept going with his own agenda. Raghu knew this and he followed us, pulled over the cop, and we jumped on his bike. Then, he stayed with us at the bus station, faught for us because we lost our ticket, and walked us to our seats. Such an angel.

I will now rest for a few days...I will be off to Kerala this upcoming weekend and shopping until then. So, if you have any requests, you have three days!
Peace and Love.
Kristy...thank you.

I love India

I suppose that on my first day, rather, my first travel experience, that I had a fear and paranoia about, well, everything. Watching my bag to make sure the gnomes didn't take it away, looking over my shoulder when being followed in a country of one billion, turning away fresh juice and cheap vendor food because the little health book said so, and of course, thinking that every taxi driver is a devil for scams when actually, it's only half of them. As a professional amateur (young and experienced), the only tip I've learned is patience.

She said it would take one hour to the airport (mental note: when back in Bangkok, ask the ladies at air bus station to make a sign saying, "Traffic jams occur at the same peak hours as in your own country; only difference is that this is f*in wild Bangkok! Thank you!") Two hours and a bit later, I arrive at the brand new and intensely massive Bangkok airport in Thana City. Yeah, for those who've been to Bangkok before, the airport is no longer in the city...it is way the hell out of Bangkok.

I walked about one kilometer to get to my gate, realized that I was once gain one of three white people in a crowd of 160, and got on the Air bus 330. Three hours later I land in massively old Bangalore. I look out the airplane window and what do you thinking is pulling our mini train of luggage? A little white tractor. I can not even begin to tell you what it was like trying to find my little backpack in a crowd of 300, with no order, and only identifying the baggage claim belt by someone I recognized on the plane...right. Everybody right now looks the same.
I found Sahana...actually, I stood outside until she saw me and off we went. I love India.

We are off to a festival today then to Hampi, India's and the World's most ancient ruins. Oh..my health is awesome and the Thai massage and hair cut I had yesterday has got me to a feel-good start.

Words of life in Cambodia...

INVESTIGATION NEEDED INTO PREAH VIHEAR SHOOTINGS

Media statement, November 16, 2007

(I received this the other day about illegal land grab issues in Cambodia. Canada Licadho is working with Licadho to assist these families. It can be a little heavy but I'm certain that you are not seeing this back home. Cambodia claims to be democratic.)

LICADHO is gravely concerned by the killings of two people during a land eviction in Preah Vihear province and calls for the government to quickly launch a full investigation into the shootings. An initial investigation by LICADHO indicates the excessive use of force by the authorities, and the unlawful participation of soldiers in the eviction. In addition, the eviction violated an agreement signed by local authorities stating that the villagers could remain temporarily on the land until a resolution to the dispute was found.

The shootings occurred on the morning of Thursday, November 15, when more than 150 police, military police, soldiers and Forestry Administration officers violently evicted a group of 317 families who had settled on land in Choam Ksan district of Preah Vihear. According to eyewitnesses interviewed by LICADHO, the authorities made no attempt to warn or negotiate with the people on the day of the eviction.

At least 11 persons, including the two injured who are in police custody, have been arrested. Eight of them were arrested during the eviction and the other three, including a provincial deputy governor, a day earlier. The eviction followed several days of tension between local authorities and the 317 families, who had recently come to the area from other parts of Cambodia in search of land. The families settled on vacant land near Sraham village, Kandout commune, but were told by authorities that they could not stay there. Negotiations were held on November 10, after the families had barricaded roads in the area to protest authorities' threats to arrest one of the representatives of the families.
Without any warning according to witnesses, the authorities moved in to evict the families and began shooting. The eviction was allegedly led by a military commander and most of the forces who participated it in were soldiers, according to witnesses.

LICADHO urges:
An investigation by national authorities into the events before, during and after the eviction. The investigation should focus on: which members of the authorities opened fire and why?; why were soldiers unlawfully deployed in an eviction of civilians, and on whose orders?; why was no attempt made to continue negotiations with the people on the day of the eviction rather than the use of violence to remove them?