Stay Tuned

I'll have a few crazy things to post in the next couple of weeks so please keep reading. Look ahead to read about Love, Aftershock, and When I'll be running presentations on water and the trip in general. Oh...and PICTURES!

Tears

I'm on my way home...with tears as I go!

So, the day I was about to hop on a 12 hour bus ride to Bangkok, I was taken over by a small parasite but never friendly. Jacquie was also hit by something as well and we figure that it came from our last tourist spot, Angkor Wat. I had to push my travel date which is also causing me some problems for when I arrive in the US. That story goes back to when I missed my flight out of Calgary. I also had to fly out of Cambodia into Bangkok because of the Chinese New Year AND because I have not fully recovered from whatever is eating me inside. Again, I can only laugh at this crazy trip. I am so looking forward to coming home and recovering...emotionally, spiritually, and physically. You can look at pictures of half the trip here.

I will have limited time in Calgary before I head back to Athabasca on the 1st, if all goes well, but I'll see most of you in February for sure.

Angkor Wat
A place that I could never try to explain without pictures so I'll give you the details in another blog when I have the pictures uploaded.

Street Kids
I could have shed so many tears for the muffins that work or beg or live on the streets in Cambodia. There are an estimated 15,000 of these children and a few have pulled on my heart and will not be forgotten. Check out what a friend is doing from Australia and Canada here.

Now that I'm leaving, it's hard to know if people read this blog or not. Thank you so much from all the love from family. Tourists will come and go here, but for what I was experiencing and doing, it could not be done without the love.

24 Hours

The last 24 hours has been the most interesting day I've ever experienced - it was also my last full day in Phnom Penh. I had lots of people to say goodbye to (most of which I missed), wrote a water proposal for the floating village, visited the landfill, gift sharing and last minute relaxation. Mom, check email when you can.

The Landfill - Steung Meanchey
I went to visit the landfill that some of you may have seen on the Humans Being video, and saw for myself this unforgiving place. Off a main drag road, a dusty and bumpy road travel 1km to the edge of the landfill. The stench was somewhat tolerable compared to the open sewage in 40 degree heat, but the toxic fumes were the killer. One and a half million people live in Phnom Penh and if the garbage isn't in the river, it's here. Since there is no recycling, composting, or anything of the sorts, it's all done at the landfill as the garbage is dumped and, look out because the truck drivers certainly don't. We brought some water to hand out and it created a bit of chaos at the couple of huts we saw that were on the front line. The feeling was intense, as expected. There is no well since the ground is poison and the families have to buy their water but they only make ~$1 per family a day.

The Fall
I was filming some of the water that had collected from rain among the thousands of tons of garbage, when I experience first hand what the water felt like. Yes, I fell into a hole of toxic water and garbage. On the surface, the garbage is so thick that it just looks like land, so when I stepped, I fell into an endless water hole. The only way I could describe it was that it was like swimming in warm jello with plastic floaties. I could only laugh at myself - the locals weren't. They were worried and immediately washed me off with rainwater. I also lost my flip flops in the ordeal but I saved the video camera...choose your battles, eh?
(Yes, I'm okay and yes, I went to a hotel to have a hot and soapy shower)

The lesson was learned and the experience will forever change not only my thoughts on poverty, but also on garbage in general. A simple program like recycling may take dozens and dozens of people who are there, to work in a recycling center. A bottle depot takes on new meaning. For an alternative look at what happened that day click here and look at Jacquie's blog... for a fairy tale sort of story.

Got Blood?
Of course, since I'm in Cambodia, I decided to give blood at the local Siem Reap children's hospital. Something I had never done before and something I will certainly do when I get back. As an FYI, I'm an O negative! They gave us a can of coke, a package of cookies (which I of course shared with some kids), and a t-shirt. Canada, take note!

Gift Exchange
People in Phnom Penh have been so great to me (and Jacquie). We were certainly taken care of and I left a few things behind from home. Lee and Shawn, just so you know, a token from Radeth and Roath is coming.

Support Fair Trade

In case you ever wondered about 'Fair Trade', what it means or even how to run a business with it. Check out FUTURE GREENfrom the couple we met in Ban Lung, Cambodia. They work directly with the villagers so that THEY can send their children to college.
For example, it takes 5 days at 7 hours per day to make ONE blanket. They make about $6, the people in the market sell it for $10 and by the time it gets to Canada, it costs from $100 to $150. Hmmmm....check out Global Exchange for cool stories on fair trade, including Cambodia.

World Vision and Rainwater

I spent the day out in the field joining a World Vision Khmer and Hueng Ly from Rainwater Cambodia. The village is near a town called Boeng Klang, 40km outside of Siem Reap, and then 10km on a dusty single car dirt road. In the past, I've had problems with World Vision because the organization has a mandatory religious study for all of their staff, whether they are religious in Budhism or with no belief at all. It's restricting a freedom they are so proud to persue. However, they are doing some incredible work accross Cambodia.

The Objective
The day was for the village people to be informed of the rainwater project and then in the afternoon to select the beneficiaries. The people of the village are the ones who decide which families should be receipients. I thought the porinciple of their method in selecting was healthy, but since the poorest of the village could not attend (too busy trying to find food to survive or to build a shelter), problems came into play. Some elders shed light on the poorest families so we decided to see for ouselves. There are 130 families in this farming village and only 20-25 families were to receive full subsidy.

The Tour of Village
I'm not sure if I could describe to you in writing what the poorest farmers experience - I met the kindest people from every corner. A dissability that I don't think they even have a name for, HIV children, widowed HIV moms (with HIV), single farming parents living in a 5ft by 5ft straw house, and on. It was a little overwhelming and hard for the staff to decided who gets the support. I also met the sweetest and oldest woman I have seen in Cambodia. Life expectancy is about 58 years old, and this woman was living in a 100sq.ft. home but the owner of the home wanted it back. She came up to us with aboout a dozen children standing by her side and sat on the dirty road with hands in prayer, almost crying for help. I sat next to her and listened; even though I couldn't rally understand the words, I could hear what she was saying. She told us she had land to build on but no money to contruct a house. Hueng Ly said that it was up to World Vision. How much does a small home cost? About a measily $25-40US. Of course I said I would pay for it. Elders are highly respected in this country and for a village to not be able to support her is truly poverty. The land she owned, for interest sake, was about 40 square meters.

The Reality of Men

Lakeside Welcome
It was not even 2 hours back in Phnom Penh when asked by a couple of sketchy drunk men from India to marry him and sleep with him...right there on the door step of the guesthouse he was staying in. I sent a complaint to the owner as did Jacquie. In French, she communicated with the owner how these men were bad news. The owner says she tells the police a lot about these men and that they are under watchful eye! Why? Because these creeps are showing up more and more to do 'business' with women , even if they are white. Anycase, I am only staying here for four days then I head back to Siem Reap. Probably best too, since there is quite a bit of tension with the senator election, human rights advocacy in the streets, and now the dodgy men that live on Lakeside street.

Local Cuisine
On a lighter note - really light - I enjoyed the flavor of not one but two delicious crickets the other night. I ended up coughing up a leg, but it honestly tasted like super crisp chicken wings, yes, the good old, "tastes like chicken" line. I also enjoyed the taste of pig skin as well. Not the kind you can get at home in the superstore, but fresh and tasty. Jacquie is still traveling with me, so I guess it's not that repulsive. I had the pig skin in the company of good honest NGO workers, foreign and Khmer. It was a 100 day celebration of a past funeral which happens after anyone dies. It's a lot of chanting with monks, burning of incense, and good food. The music could go, but when accompanied with unlimited beer and whisky, anything goes.

Not that bad
Now that I've had the chance to meet some really down to earth locals, being swarmed at the bus station by moto and tuktuk drivers isn't so bad. They're just trying to make a dollar and are pretty friendly as well; not to be mistaken with trustworthy.
This week, Leigh from Siem Reap is coming down to Phnom Penh and we'll be going to the landfill; I'll be using this area in my footage.

Rainwater
I will be joining Hueng Ly on Tuesday to assess a new village in partnership with World Vision. The village has been selected as new beneficiaries for the rain water system.

Siem Reap

This is a different world in Cambodia. Home to about 100,000 Siem Reap caters to almost a 1.5 million tourists so infrastructure is going up fast with hotels larger than any I've seen back home. This is also home to a ridiculous number of street children all vulnerable to drug addictions, sexual and physical abuse, and health risks. I met Leigh (Australian) who has put together the Future Cambodia Fund with other concerned global citizens. She is doing an amazing difference in so many lives in Siem Reap and I look forward to learning more from Leigh and her work.

The Tonle Sap Lake Testing
The lake is one of the largest fresh water lakes in the world and with the monsoon season, the lake swells up form 2500km2 to 12,000km2 (480% increase because of the Mekong River reversing its flow) offering some of the coolest biodiversity. I was out there for an afternoon, testing the water at the clinic, on the shoreline, and out in the lake. Results were somewhat shocking since the floating village of 6,000 use the water to bath, clean dishes, use as sewage disposal, and drink from. The health clinic is priority since Future Cambodia is setting up a day clinic for children on Feb.2nd with a Canadian group of EMS workers (The amazing DMGF). There are so many basic needs that are not met so I'm grateful for the good work being done.

Street Kids
The tourists that come through Siem Reap are hear to see the incredible Angkor temple - one of the most impressive mysticals of the world and the largest temple in the world. It is hard to watch their ignorance and how the children are seen as just objects of poverty - all children are beautiful human beings and should be acknowledged, at the least. There will be a health clinic held for the street kids on Jan.28 and I'm looking into extending my ticket to stay an extra day or two to help out. Once again, Future Cambodia Fund is working in this project. This is the kind of experience that will place my heart with the Cambodian people and because there is so much to do here, it will be hard to ignore once I return home.

New Post and some Pics

I've added two new posts both different in what I'm experiencing. I've also been able to upload some pictures, so the ones on the blog from the past will be replaced with my own. Jacquie, Roath, and Me

Here's a glipse to show that yes, I am healthy and taking in the sun!

I've left Kep and will stop in Phnom Penh for only one day. I'll be heading to Siem Reap to do some water testing for an organization called Future Cambodia Fund, check it out here.

Kep and the beach

I have passed through Phnom Penh and headed further south to the former great city of Kep.

Kep History
In short, Kep was once upon a time a rich town full of Cambodia's wealthy people. It is also the place where extremist Khmer Rouge first resided. It was the poor people who lived on the outskirts of this wealthy town who decided enough with the slavery and on with revolution! The old homes remain and offer an interesting perspective of what life was once like in Kep.

Pepper and Caves
I rented a motobike from the next city, Kampot, and joined Marcel on a ride through the country side. On a small farm that we came across, I met Mark and David, both here in Cambodia to help the people. Mark has created a ram pump to be used for farmers and its brilliance is that it uses no gas and no electricity. After some photos were taken, we headed down the dusty road and bought some pepper from a pepper farm - the pepper is yummy when it's fresh.
We bounced on the dusty road for about 11km and then came to one of the most impressive caves I have ever seen. It is referred to as the Dragon Cave and when you enter (the mouth), you come to an opening (the stomach) that offers a view to the sky. The opening looks like a bomb was dropped on the mountain and left a HUGE hole to the sky. The caves was full of interesting images, budhas, and sounds.

General thoughts
I'm starting to see how easy it is to fall in love with this country and the people. Now that I've seen Kep, I feel the balance from what I see in Phnom Penh. I have lots to do in Phnom Penh so I will be leaving to back there tomorrow and stay for the remainder of my time in Cambodia. I've been offered to help out an organization called Future Cambodia Fund to test water and maybe look at some filters for purchasing. For sure, more details to come.

Feelings of War

It has been brought to my attention that I have not yet wrote about the war(s) that occurred in these countries that I have seen so far. I have been holding off mostly because I have been hearing so many stories from the Vietnam war, the Khmer Rouge, and the numerous civil wars in between, that it is almost impossible to write about it.

In Laos, it was the most heavily bombed country during the Vietnam war which of course included the border of Laos/Cambodia. I've seen old US helmets in village farms, US army issued uniforms on the tribe people, and bomb scars creating massive crater like holes. When I was passing through the border, I could sense the tension that occurred here only 30 some years ago.
As for Cambodia, we visited the last place controlled by the Khmer Rouge (only 6 years ago) and the place (Kep) where it all started. I've learned that there were 4 sections to the Khmer Rouge, regional sections if you will. Each were run very different and each had their own method of imprisonment and torture. I've met people from both sides and I can only say for now, that the people are highly misunderstood and too many tourists either become ignorant to the Cambodia history or just pass through without a thought at all. That's how I feel about some people who visit this place. Other foreigners like David from France, Mark from Denmark, Leigh from Australia, and those of you back home, have taken the time to listen to these people (directly or indirectly through me) and learn. The more I know about the good people, the more I want to stay here because I can see the positive change that they have all created.

More about the war to be continued...I need to learn myself and I'm sure my papa will help me with that one!

Islands to Hill Tribes

Back on the beaten path! I'm in Kratie to potentially view some of the last remaining fresh water dolphins on earth and then down to Phnom Penh and back to water. During this leg, I've been able to understand how the water is used and misused across from Laos to Cambodia so it will be nice to revisit the people in the villages.

Don Det IslandWe took an overnight bus from the Laos Capital, Vientianne, to the snmall city of Pakse. We arrived at 7am and decided to head to the islands that day...no point in staying in a boring town for a full day. We found ourselves on a public 'bus' once again and eventually dropped off at some dusty non-white of a village. After a ferry across the Mekong, we ended up on an island full of peace and incredibly new to tourists. It felt like more of a community style of visit than a druken binge for young travelers. I loved it. I met a few business men and we talked a lot about ecotourism. I would love to come bakc here and help out Mr.Boun. There were nothing but good honest people on this island. I even had a chance to take in some Lao boxing and a local boat race. We spent two nights here with no access to communication and only local food...mmmm...rice.

Border Crossing
There is something mystic about this bording crossing as it's not official nor smooth. A few obstacles to get over include the shitty road, the rushing of tourists, the sketchy 'admin' fees, and the dead zone between Laos and Cambodia. I could sense the history and the tension this area once held. The crossing went very well and found ourselves among the dustiest roads on this plabet. We made it to Stung Treng ferry and looked for our next stop.

Hill Tribes
An incredibly beautiful part of North East corner of Cambodia...the people here are not Kmer but speak their own tribe language. Ban Lung is way off the track and is only accessible by hired taxi. It simply means that a foreinger pays about $7US for the 150km journey and then the driver looks for locals to fill the car. It sounds like a scam but really, the people here don't have a government to support public transportation so I have no problem stuffing 8-12 people in a Toyota Camry...awesome cars with incredible tires. The roads are identical to those found on rally car races with some added sharp boulders and deep trenches across the roads.

We took a trek with a local guide, Ren. He comes from the tribe of Yakhlom and gave us an incredible insight in how he lives. From drinking rice wine out of a clay jar and smoking wild tobacco in a banana leaf to watching blankets being hand woven and a squirel dinner be prepared, it was a full day adventure...and lots of walking. The people walk everywhere and i was very humbled to what I have (or don't have) back home.

The Little Stuff

I'm on my way to the south of Laos. Since they only issue a 15 day visa at any border, our time is running out and I'd like to be back in Cambodia soon. I just spent 3 hours on what the locals call a public bus. I've now learned that a public bus includes either a transit bus like back home, or a small pick-up truck. Our pick-up was hulling twenty-some people at any given time. Now, in Vientiane, we're letting time pass before jumping on a ten hour bus (real bus) ride to the town of Paske. From there we'll spend the night and then venture to the border of Cambodia - I'm eager to get back to Cambodia continue some work with Rainwater. I'm not sure what internet is like in these small towns so it may be a couple of days until I'm back online.

Climbing
There are so many unique places to climb around Van Vieng. I rented some gear and a guide book from a local guide company and a motorbike for about $30US. Definitely not cheap, but completely worth the dollars. We drove out to this deserted resort and found the river. We called over a boat man to take us across for about 50 cents. We edged our way between some rocks and found our spot. It was Jacquie's first time out climbing, so I gave a crash course on belaying and off I went lead climbing the coolest rock I've been on. The rock is not polished like back home so it roughed up my hands pretty good. So much fun. We managed to do a little bouldering as well. We finished that day with an organic beer and watch the sun set over the mountain ridge.

Local Cuisine
So far, my daily diet consists of rice (or sticky rice), vegetables, chicken, and spring rolls. In the morning, the staple is egg, toast, and Lao coffee - I'm also enjoying the daily fruit shake (pineapple or mango). The spices are really good but I'm unfamiliar with the ingredients. On the occational night, Jacquie and I will splurge for a pizza or pasta (cheers to globalization). I eat a solid three square meals a day and drink enough to experience local liquor (especially the whisky) for about $4 per day.

Guest Houses
There are not a lot of hostels in S.E. Asia and the affordable replica are the guest houses - families turning their homes into mini hotels. They all usually serve food and provide the basic amenities and they alter with shared or private bathrooms. We are spending about $6US per night.

Caves and the Beach

The last two days have been so great. I'm in the small town of Vang Vieng, a five hour crazy, windy, rough road south of Luang Prabang. The scenery is amazing and I'm reminded of an untouched New Zealand.

Caving and Kayaking
Off to the day tour we go. We had a full day of four caves and kayaking in the area of Vang Vieng. Something new to me was tubing into a cave with good old fashioned inner tubes. Kind of sketchy when the head lamp is made up of exposed wires attached to an acid leaking battery pack that you had to hang from the neck...eek.

There was also a cave that I'd like to return to since it has no ending, according to locals. Our guide told us that one could walk for two to three days into the cave and be easily lost. Last year a foreigner went in with 10 candles and got himself lost. A dozen or so days later, he was found...uh, not alive. You'd think that a headlamp would be a better option, then again, one would have to be thinking first.

After caving and a little walk through the farmers fields, we jumped into kayaks for some class I river action. The major obstacles included drinking tubers, bamboo bridges, and floating poop. Yup, be warned of the floating feces as one swims in the river to cool off on a hot sunny day.

The Day of Sunshine
After floating down the river, Jacquie convinced me that we should spend the day relaxing on these bamboo shacks, half on land, half in the water. For sure a relaxing day and well needed since tomorrow I'll be teaching Jacquie how to rock climb for her first climbing experience - yes, it must be in Laos.

Hike, Swim, and Tiger Feast

I brought in the New Year very chilled and relaxing in bed! I was up early the next morning to experience what would be on the top five days of my life.

Waterfall Visit
We woke up early and hired a taxi truck to take Jacquie and I to the Kuang Si waterfalls. The ride on the 30km dusty dirt road was an adventure on its own, but offered a great chance to see the country and farm life. Since it was New Years day, we were one of few people who were there at ten in the morning. We had the whole place to ourselves and it was spectacular. The water was so clear and clean so of course we went for a swim next to the falls. It was a great treat! We also hiked up the side of the falls and ended up right over top. We would have been about 100ft looking down from this magical Lord of the Rings kind of scenery.

The Eye of the Siberian Tiger
On the way down, we had lunch next to this Tiger sanctuary. We had donated a bit of money to help feed this Tiger who was saved from a poacher 5 years ago. Her two brothers died but Phet was a survivor. The lady who keeps the Tiger, welcomed us into the cage area and let us watch her feed the grown Tiger - she eats 4kg of Buffalo per day. Then, she let us pet...uh, Phet. She is a beautiful cat and I loved the experience of watching this cutie!

We leave Luang Prabang tomorrow and I will miss it. I love the people here and I love the scenery. It is so nice to meet honest locals who still take care of the tourists.