Laos Gong Show

Crossing Into Laos
There is such intensity when crossing into Laos but there is no reason for it. The problem is the wait because of so many tourists traveling the same way at the only border crossing in the North of Thailand. There were a hundred plus tourists that arrived into the small border town of Chiang Khong. The next morning, all of these tourists from all over the world were heading onto a slow boat for 2 days down the Mekong River (separating Laos from Thailand). We were thrown onto the back of a small pickup truck - ten of us plus luggage - then stamped at the river front, ferried across to the other side, stamped again and then trucked over the the boat landing. We then realized that our next two days were going to be a test.

Slow Boat Mind F#@*
There is no way to describe the gong show of a slow boat experience as a part of a package tour. On a boat for 45 people, 110 of us tourists were crammed into this boat. Of course, there weren't enough seats - some had the edge, some on plastic stackable chairs, and your truly was seated on the cooler with Jacquie. There was only one toilet (a squatie) and the journey for that day was 6 hours. Ahh, yes, and the puking Thai drunk who accompanied the sound of the diesel engine. It was also my moon time...but no fear, we made it into Pak Beng (a small fishing village) just as the sun set. I lost my bag for a few minutes since the locals try and take guard of the bags for money. I grabbed my bag and another travelers and we met up somewhere on the dark, sandy, and steep hillside. This package tour screamed sub-standard and the guesthouse was no different - one toilet for a floor of 20 guests.

Day of Grace
No worries to my family! The next day, Jeda and I tried to barter for a chartered boat. We had about 15 people in on the deal but it was hopeless. So, we were about to bit into our fate for a second day on this godless boat when the American teachers from Bangkok saved the day. Six adults and one baby were accepted into their boat for the whole day. We paid $5US each for insurance and spent the day relaxing in the sun, playing my guitar (bought in Cambodia), reading, and taking in the sites. The sites reminded me of the Bowron Lakes with volcanic rocks and Northern Alberta sand.

HAPPY NEW YEAR
Try not to forget to add one second to the countdown this year. It will be the 23rd second added since 1972!

Moto and Chiang Mai

After calling home and running some errands, Jacquie and I rented a motobike for the rest of our stay in Chiang Mai. For $4US and my good old passport, we had a bike with two helmets...safety first. It's usually the foreigners who wear the brain buckets but slowly the trend is catching on with locals.

Cave Temple

Our first stop was the Wat Umong - a small cave temple used by monks to escape when the outside world was too much to handle. The cave itself is located in what looks like the suburbs and there are no really tourist signs or guides...therefore hardly any people were there. I was struck by its unique isolation and the caves itself held six small worship idols and one larger one. The ceiling was only 6ft and covered in archaic paintings and so untouched.

Mountain Temple
Then we ventured up to the mountain temple to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep. For 10km we winded up the mountain side like one would through Rogers pass back home. We reached the top and I was amazed at how many tourists were here. There were cable cars dragging tourists up the mountain side, but we wondered to the back side and found a small pilgrimage stairway. We passed a couple of village huts and came up from under the temple. We walked around the main temple first. Saw the famous bells that anyone can ring - each bell carrying a note that corresponds with the chanting.
We also had the view over all of Chiang Mai and its surrounding area - so beautiful. When we realized that our eyes weren't tearing up because of the beauty but instead because of the polluting smog, we continued around the temple. We bought some items for offering (candles, incense, and a flower) and walked into the temple. The scene was quite powerful. So many statues in gold and this impressive pyramid shape, all in gold. I walked around the structure with a constant gaze at how beautiful it is.
I ignored the ignorant tourists who flashed pictures and walked aimlessly looking for a 'perfect' shot. We didn't take any pictures here; we just kept it for ourselves. I look forward to more beauty like this as I continue to Loas.

Thai Christmas

Out of the hills I come. For the last few days, I've been in the Thailand hills, 15km West of Chiang Mai. I have never experienced such a relaxing Christmas in my life and I am tempted to return again next year. Jacquie and I enjoyed the long walks along the rolling hill roads, an elephant ride, thai massage, and the most fantastic meals...not to mention spicy. We even took some bikes out in around the village and I loved the slow pace of these people. Now back in Chiang Mai, one can only sense the slow pace town being transformed into a little Bangkok, like an Athabasca to Fort McMurray - it would be a shame.
I'll be renting a motobike so that we can head out to the famous Wat Umong - a cave temple just west of the city.

Knowing that the hustle and hassle of Christmas is slowing down and gearing up for New Years, the same here. Christmas isn't typically celebrated but the New Year celebration tends to last until late next morning.

I will be off to Laos in the next couple of days. I will be crossing the border at Chiang Khong and then on a two day slow boat ride into Luang Prabang, Laos. Look ahead to stories from the border and on the river...and hope for good weather. The climate is the coldest in years and I even had a head cold after leaving the chilly Phnom Penh.

Change of Pace

So I've made a quick change to pace. I was pretty ill early this week but have since taken a flight back to Bangkok to meet up with Jacquie aka Ornery_Hipster.

We are just on our way out to a nice little resort outside of Chiang Mai called Banana Bon Bon and this is where I will be for my Christmas vacation. I'll be in touch with family soon but otherwise HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

Ride to the South

Canadian News
Just in case their becomes a word about a Canadian that dies on the news, it is not me. The Canadian owner of the Lazy Lounge restaurant died as a result of a moto accident a couple days ago.

Today's best Advice
"Eat fruit and rice and lots of water." - Mom

Dirt Bike Ride

So again I took off with Marcel to the south of the city limits. We were on the highway to Vietnam, about 140km from the border. The scenery was beautiful and very different than the to the north of the city. There were interesting villages to explore and the traditional methods of farming...especially the watering of the fields by hand! We ended up driving through this tiny village and turned a corner and in a blink of an eye, the Tiger and Angkor Beer brewery took over the landscape. We then ventured to the other side of the highway and rode along the river road, passing village to village. Then, the most amazing sound I have ever experienced. The scarfs and shawls that locals wear are made in the underneath of wooden homes and we stood on the road among these homes. The sound was like a continuous wave of heavy machinery with almost antique systems to make these tightly woven scarfs. It is a sound so unique and rare. The rest of the tour was enjoyable, taking in the beauty of this part of Cambodia.

Dinner on Mats
Rainwater Cambodia took me out for dinner where one is served along the river. We sat on mats and ate some delicious cuisine of rice, chicken, lettuce, and incredible dipping sauce. I'm sure I will pay for it in a couple of days, but it was worth it. I also discovered another cuisine to match the spiders (soon I will try...soon) - the fertilized duck eggs. Stef, I will save the details to myself. I for sure lost my appetite with this one. Do we have in Canada?

Thank You

Just wanted to say a quick thank you to everyone writing comments in the blog. It means a great deal to know that people are reading them and thinking about me while I embark on this journey. Cheers! ~Carly Steiger

The Outskirts of Phnom Penh

I was given the opportunity to see the outskirts of the city. Marcel owns a dirt bike and often goes off on little adventures around the country, so, he invited me along.

Our first visit was in the North East in what we would call, urban sprawl. Most slums are located on city limits and here is no different. Once can witness the urban development push out people from their wooden shack homes. Similar to how city development can intimidate or force farmers to move. The key frustrating difference is that farmers back home are compensated or paid off but, since the people here don't actually own the land, they just get pushed at their own expense. As for the government, they also build buildings for congress or whatever their agenda requires.

Our second visit was in the North West. History shows that settlements start on routes of transportation for trade. We traveled in and around the railway tracks where hundreds of small, one room, wooden shacks house anywhere from five to ten people. Along the tracks one can witness the continuous row of connected shacks - like a strip mall with only a wall to separate one establishment from the next. It was an interesting experience to see the life of these beautiful people, the children always giggled as we passed and I could not help but smile and wave back.
The comparison I could offer to people back home is if one could imagine 75% of their cities population homeless. What kind of condition would the city be? Where would you fit? The railway track area offers the sight of not only some of the poorest people in Phnom Penh, but also the richest. As I described the wooden shacks, now imagine it next to an 8 foot wall painted a golden yellow. Inside these walls exists a life even a poor Khmer may not be able to imagine. A three thousand square foot home and delicate landscaping in the yard. In is a contrast from one extreme to another in a blink of an eye. This is the kind of place a traveler does not enter after 8pm. The poor know what money looks like and they understand what that means as far as a lifestyle goes.

Global News from Cambodia

I spent the last two days reading, playing guitar, and taking Kmer lessons, all very relaxing and enjoyable. A local paper that I try to read everyday is the Cambodia Daily; a paper with some of the best journalists in the world. Reading about current events that one would never even hear about in Canada, U.S., or Europe. It has been interesting to read everything from Canadian politics in Asia to local corruption in schools.

APLE's Good News
The donated money from Humans Being is in the hands of Action Pour Les Enfants and today I read about a recent arrest of an Australian Teacher. He is being convicted of child sex abuse and has admitted his offence. Of course he admitted his crime; they found hundreds of naked photos with young boys and some of him in sexual positions.

This is the 23rd foreigner arrested in Cambodia on the basis of einvestigations conducted by APLE.

As much as the information can be hard to understand or to even believe, it is important to know that the problem exists and that one person can make a difference.

I'm starting to see that every day here in Phnom Penh offers one beauty and one horror. As I am new to Cambodia, I am still only at the surface in understanding the people and the culture and I am very keen to learn more. I will soon be going to the outskirts and looking at the Cambodians way of 'urban development'. I have not been drawn to the tourist attractions but instead I have become so facinated in the way people are recovering from the genocide, civil war, and dictatorship. To read more about the genocide click here, or just google it.

Google - Not the only answer

"The biggest use of armed force against civilians since the Teananmen massacre in 1989 occured on Dec.6, 2005. Only now is news reaching the people in China. Why, you may ask? The Chinese government has learned to blackout not only the local media but also the internet search engines." - New York Times, Howard French

I guess, one can never really know what information is true. The only defense people have is to become more educated on their own. For me, I've started to take care in not only what I read but as well, in what I hear on the street. There are always two sides with many schools of thought.

Village tour and Tarantulas

My adventure started at 5am with a motodrive with Hueng Li, a Khmer staff working for Rainwater Cambodia. Just a note...motodriving on the highway can be super sketchy. Hueng Li is about my age and is one of the few Cambodians who want to take care of his own people - he is a very generous and kind man.

We drove to the city of Khompong Luong and then another 30km on the dusty dirt road North to the villages Pra Pang Thmor and Kor. This is where a World Vision office resides to offer classes and resources to the villagers. Rainwater Cambodia works with them in the surrounding villages. They have 30 rainwater harvesting tanks in these villages and there would be more but, like all projects, the families must contribute to the cost of the system and Rainwater Cambodia is currently waiting for more funding to subsidize these costs. For Rainwater Cambodia, they only ask for labor assistance from the family. Some families in the village attempt to use jars to collect rainwater but, of course, there is no protection from insects and animals and therefore no guarantee in safe water (see photo).


I had the opportunity to visit the original tanks, test a few systems, and film the good work that Rainwater Cambodia has done. I also had Hueng Li interview some locals who already had the system and some other locals who have decided to build a hand dug well. It is nice to hear the concerns and the praises directly from the people.

The Results
All the people we talked to said that rainwater tastes better than well water; probably because about 74% of deaths in Cambodia are from water borne diseases. I didn't have the heart to tell them that it was because of how acidic the groundwater is. The rainwater coming out of the tanks has a balanced pH and looks great. There is no contamination from insects or animals and is 100% safe. I also witnessed the post project work when Hueng Li shadows the farmers in maintenance of the tanks. He doesn't do the work for them, he lets them do it on their own and then steps in if needed - a method of teaching that I respect.

Spiders
On the way back to Phnom Penh, I was at a restaurant (kind of like the pit stops along the highway) and I was offered some of the finest local cuisine. This, of course, includes deep fried spiders. Not just ordinary daddy longlegs but tarantulas, legs and all. It wasn't really what I wanted for my first meal after being sick for 2 days...but soon I will attempt.

Seeing is Believing

A short story about Radeth
I had a chance to meet this young woman and her story is something that speaks truth to many Cambodians in today's gerneration. She is studying computer sciences at the local university and the expectation from her family is to find a job to support not only herself, but her family as well. I can sense a lot of pressure for her since she is the eldest child in her family. So Radeth works very hard in her studies and is very determined to succeed, not only for herself but for her family.
Over the last seven years, her eyes have started to deteriorate and this is causing a lot of concern for her. She has not yet seen an eye doctor but instead uses the quick fix of street eye glasses - similar if people back home were to buy eye glasses at the local 7evelen. For Radeth, there is simply no tangible money for the concern to be cared for.
I will be taking Radeth to a professional eye doctor and purchase prescription eye glasses for her. The cost? Almost the same as back home. Right now, Radeth puts herself in harms way by even riding her moto around town - those people back home who need to wear glasses can understand this importance.
This small, but very important deed, is from my aunt Inga. Thank you. This is something that means the world to Radeth and it is one small step in favor of humanity.

Rainwater Update

First of all, after staring face to face with a cockroach and having 20 something bites on my feet alone, I decided that it was time to pull out the bug net. I'm definitely sleeping better. As it was bound to happen at some point, I was very sick all last night so today, I'll be consuming only water to kill whatever lurks in my stomach.

Meeting with RainwaterI met with Lyn, the director of this fantastic NGO and I was immediately invited to visit some of their projects in the field. At 5am, Hueng Li and I will be traveling 3 hours to a village he supervised in developing. Our primary objective is to test the water to prove to people that the pH is safe for drinking and then I'll also be filming. I've decided to create a short video with some interviews from the people in the village. This will be a great asset for Rainwater Cambodia. I also found out the CIDA (Canadian International Development Agency) was their main sponsor last year. I will visiting their office today to review some key things that Rainwater Cambodia accomplishes in comparison to some other NGOs.

I'm spending the day just relaxing and stay hydrated. I'll be writing a cover letter for Roath to help her work or volunteer with Licadho. For more information on Licadho, click here.

Phnom Penh Lesson

Streets of dirt and garbage, motodrivers of annoyance, and people of beauty. I can see why people who come here fall in love. I spent the day walking from my comfort at lakeside to the Wat Phnom (temple) to the museum to the Royal Palace and back.

Khmer Cuisine
Veasna and Matha made a traditional Khmer meal for me and Roath and it was not only different, it was good. Of course I can not pronounce or begin to spell the dishes I ate but I can tell you that I ate fish fried with marinated ginger and peanuts, soup of rotten fish (foreigners call it smelly fish), mixed greens, and rice. I was quiet surprised of how much I enjoyed it. Then, Roath made some chocolate cake for desert...so yummy.

Khmer Language
I have given myself two hours each day to learn the local language, Khmer. Veasna is a great teacher and knows the English language very well. In the city, I was able to somewhat communicate with locals so I know I will enjoy the morning lessons over the best milk coffee in the world - at least, in what I know so far.

Wat Phnom
I was a little apprehensive to walk into the temple but I tried not to let my white skin shy me away. I gave an offering and said a prayer of health and safety then made my way out. Some women my age were giving me quite a stare and so I waved them over only to realize they just wanted a picture with me...same same as India. It's the women here that I find are more curious then the men. Although, I do look like a young man by their standards (short hair, t-shirt, and pants) - too funny.

Statues of Gods
Never have I seen so many statues of Buddha in my life; not only Buddha but also Shiva (god of destruction and creation), Vishnu (god of protection), and Genesa (The elephant with two arms). The history in the museum is mostly of Siem Reap so I will be for sure visiting soon. Siem Reap is about a four hour bus ride north...maybe a boat ride will be more interesting.

Introduction to Cambodia

Truly a beautiful country, as are the people I have met so far.

The airport was a little strange for me. It is very small and there were about 20 people working, all in uniform. I caught them on a mistake with my visa (wrong expiration date) so a good lesson - pay attention to the details to save hassle down the way.
Once again I took a motortaxi (riding on the back of a motorcycle is definitely become my favorite mode of transportation) to what travelers call 'lakeside' - the locals call in Boeung Kak Lake. There is truth to holding on to your baggage close, there were a few times on route that had my guard up. Honestly, Cambodia is not as dangerous as made out to be, one just has to keep their wits about themselves.

Lakeside - at #11
Basically the sister of Khao San Road in Bangkok however, the streets are made of dirt and pebbles. This road, in some ways reminds me of some places in India - only there are more backpackers here, which means more American food and loud bar music at night. For $3 per night, what else could one ask for. It is also a nice place to start testing water as the lake looks like a fluorescent green so it should be interesting to test.

I have met a couple of Lee and Shawn's friends - all beautiful people. I gave Veasna and Roath their gifts, shared the video messages from Canada, and took some video footage for back home. They were very excited and we spent a few hours in each other's company.

Coming Up
Here's an idea of who I will be meeting with in the next couple of days.
I will meet with Radeth and try and help her out with her eye - maybe visit an eye doctor. Veasna is insisting on making a Kmer dinner for me, so that will be my day for tomorrow.
I meet with Rainwater Cambodia on Monday with the Lyn and we'll go over some water testing and project innovations for rainwater harvesting.
I will also be meeting with an organization that works to protect children from exploitation.

What else?
I'll be heading to the killing fields, the museum, and then the Wat Phnom (temple). I've decided to work on meditation while I'm here and Roath will be showing me where to go on Sunday.

Health Wise
All is well. I've been drinking the sweedish bitter (thank you Marie) and haven't missed a beat.

Bangkok

In one adjective - A.D.D.
The senses are completely overloaded in Bangkok, perfect for someone like me. Thanks to Lee's notes for the airport, I made it stress free to Khao San Road, the cheapest place to stay in Bangkok. Cheap, however, also comes with the 'rustic' lifestyle. But honestly, who stays in their room anyway. On Khao San Road one can find absolutely anything - travel agents, money exchange, lots of beer, internet, bed bugs, cats, street vendors and 'hippie' backpackers. I've resisted the shops so far and will spend those dollars when I visit again in January. I for sure love sitting street side watching all the people go by, drinking a heinekin and smoking the infamous beedies (tobacco rolled in a tobacco leaf).

Out and About
I decided to venture out into Bangkok buy hiring a motorcycle taxi - yes, again affirming that Carly is a little loco. Super fun and it's by far the quickest way to get anywhere. For sixty cents I traveled to the skytrain and ventured to Silom, a mid-class district. I will for sure stay in this area next time. Why? More family orientated and less boom-boom. In fact, no boom-boom. On Khao San the boom-boom music doesn't stop until about 1am so if anyone wants an early bed time, forget budget guest houses on Khao San. Cheers to ear plugs and cotton liners.

Final Thoughts
If one has patience, this place is great. In fact, it's just like Mexico with a lump sum of pollution. Tomorrow, I'm off to Cambodia. I am very excited to meet the good people of Phnom Penh. While I was in Tokyo, a nice man from Belgium gave me his guide to S.E. Asia and I was very grateful for the personal encounters he had from Cambodia. In this place...a smile goes a long way.

Humans Being Newsletter

What is Humans Being?
An NGO with members from around the world "...committed to Cambodia by promoting awareness, compassion and unity while actively demonstrating the change we wish to see." View their site at www.HumansBeing.ca or click here.

How am I involved?
The director and good friend, Lee Robinson, introduced me to Rainwater Cambodia and I was their Canadian Coordinator while they were in Cambodia last year. Read more here.

Today, I leave Okinawa to fly back to Tokyo then I will be flying into Bangkok tomorrow. You'll hear from me next when I arrive and settle in Bangkok.

Lesson Two "International USA"

Okinawa

My flight into Okinawa was breathe taking. There was a clear sky with an endless ocean horizon and islands everywhere. I was seated in business class on a 747-400 (double deck with 3-5-3 seating) in second row. What does look like? I had a panoramic view in the nose of the plane and a video screen showing a view from a camera mounted in the nose. The pilots? They were located above and eight rows behind where I was seated. The flight made up for the start of my trip so now it's all balanced.

Quick History
Okinawa was once owned by the Chinese and battles have been fought here for centuries. In World War II, Okinawa was the arena for one of the most ferocious battles of the war. Okinawa was one of the longest and hardest fought campaigns in the history of World War II. One-third of the Okinawa population, about 150,000 died in the "Typhoon of steel." In 1946, relief money started to be pumped into the local economy and Okinawa began its slow recovery. There are seven marine bases on this island and I'm staying at one of them. There's a lot of American pride here and the base is truly an American town in a Japanese world. You can barely buy sushi on base, but there's lots of subway, pizza and burger king.

Locals
The people here are the oldest and longest living people, thanks to their vegetable and fish diet, especially the seaweed. The beaches are white sand with coral cliffs and the waves break a good 300m away from shore - perfect for snorkeling and scuba diving. Naha, Okinawa is a beautiful place to visit and I love the climate, the people and especially the local cuisine.